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И еще, легкий звеняще-стрекочущий звук прогретого мотора это норма для 690-го? пробег 500км, на холодную вроде бы двигатель работает существенно тише, что за шайтан....? Прогретый будто бы подстукивает на холостых, выжмешь сцепление тишина)

Какое мнение?

Мот долго сбрасывает обороты до холостых. Тросики ходят легко, свободный ход есть, самотестирование делал.
Какое мнение?

These are the steps to follow to kill throttle gremlins:

1.Throttle calibration (All)
2.Idle reset procedure (All)
3.Throttle sensor check/adjustment (Values change depending on year model)
4.Idle CO check/adjustment

1. Throttle calibration
The simplest one. This re-calibrates the start & stop position of the throttle grip. Turn the ignition on but don't start. Wait for the tacho needle to return to zero. Then turn the throttle grip gradually from close to open and back from open to closed. Don't let it snap shut. Turn the ignition off, done.

2. Idle reset procedure
The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles.

3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described before. There are two throttle sensors on the throttle body (where the carb used to be...). On the left hand side is the sensor controlled by the ECU. This one is used when the ECU takes over the control of the throttle valve from the rider (ride by wire with data from the throttle map). On the right hand side is the sensor connected to the throttle cables coming from the throttle grip. This is the one that makes you think you're in control. Both sensors interact with each other and each has its own base adjustment. It's not difficult to understand that these are important. The abbreviations in the maintenance & repair manual for these base adjustments are 'THAD' and 'APAD'. The procedure is pretty straightforward but precise. It shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. After adjustment it makes sense to do a “Throttle Calibration” as per step 1 above. On the left side is the TPS "THAD" basic setting is 0.50 - 0.54v this is the throttle position for the ECU throttle butterfly closed with your finger. On the right side is the TPS "APAD" basic setting is 0.70 - 0.74v this is the throttle grip position sensor These settings are from the 2008-2010 manuals (2011 is different and I haven’t found the values yet). Be aware there is a plastic tag on the TPS driving the butterfly so be careful not to break it off by being to rough.

PLEASE NOTE: This is not the KTM approved procedure. I came up with this procedure after being given the values for the THAD and APAD sensors. I did this willing to assume full responsibility if I damaged or messed anything up. You should be willing to do the same.
Proceed at your own risk.
1. Remove seat.
2. Pull headlight fuse
3. Remove airbox
4. Disconnect the large multi pin connector going to the bottom of the throttle body
5. Turn ignition on
6. First verify THAD voltage level. There is a 3 pin connector that connects to the sensor on the left hand side. Using a meter and a safety pin, determine which wire is the signal wire. I did this by connecting the meter ground to the negative battery cable and probing with the meter positive by sticking the safety pin between the seal and the wire down at the connector. The connector needs to stay connected. One wire will have a +5v, one wire will be 0 (ground) and the other will be the signal (~.7v) once you figure out the probing with the safety pin, this went quickly for me. Once you find the signal wire, reach inside the TB and close the throttle blade. You should see the voltage level drop. Adjust the sensor as required to get the voltage level as specified: THAD Voltage should be 0,52V ± 0,02V Fully Closed.
7. Now verify APAD voltage level. Same procedure as above. Sensor is located on right side of TB. Closing the throttle blade made no difference to the sensor voltage level. This sensor is tied to the hand throttle. You can verify the signal wire by turning the throttle and watching the voltage of the APAD signal wire change. Adjust as required to get the voltage level as specified: APAD Voltage should be 0,72V ± 0,02V Fully Closed.
8. Once both sensors are set, turn off ignition and re-assemble everything.
Also note that the battery voltage should be higher than 9.5 V when adjusting the sensors.



4. Idle & Load CO check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described later. There is some control over the idle & load mixture through adjustment of the CO targets from the ECU. This is within a limited bandwith but enough to iron out idle or fueling glitches. Adjustments are made by up & down mouse-clicks with real time bar graphs on the screen that show what happens. Very easy. Only small changes at a time should be made. The effect of changes to the idle CO take a while to show in the graphs. The target for load CO (riding) is usually set at 1.000. This is Lamda 1 and corresponds to an air/fuel mixture of 1:14.7. Adjustment of this value goes in small steps of 0.008 but has a clear effect on the mixture throughout the rev range. Only one or two steps is enough. Not more because the mixture is likely to become too rich or lean. So if the mixture needs to be a little richer (probably) this would be 1.008 or 1.016. Ideally this should be done on a dyno but minor adjustments like this can be done by 'set & ride' too.


After these 4 steps, 99% of all idle and throttle glitches will be solved. Most already after steps 1 to 3. If not, something else is really wrong or malfunctioning but this is rarely the case. If so, there is a big chance the cause will show up on the diagnostics page of TuneECU in the error message log.

Теперь о своём - у меня давно непонятки с тосолом, наливаю только радиатор, на нагретом вижу полбачка расширителя синий, затем на ходу тосол начинает литься из перелива. Утром в радиаторе видны соты. Нехорошее подозрение на прорыв газов из цилиндра.
Скажите что это не так!
ПС. Может банально кипит тосол и надо применять импорт?

Ха ха, двигатель был на зиму вынут из рамы,

Pate, не понял про воздух.
Прошлый сезон так откатал по жаре в Грузии-Турции, утром доливая воду.
Эмульсию явно не наблюдал.